Wednesday, March 23, 2016

design change

I made a few adjustments to make this thing work. Notice the bottom of the shank is thicker and I removed the groove to make the band solid.  This will hopefully hold the tension in the ring. I also removed the split in the top with the hopes that it will be stronger.  I fillets all the edges (which I could probably do manually when it is in metal)

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

MIDTERM, Sculptris, Self portrait etc.Photoshop montage


1. Research material in the form of blog entries (this includes: necklace renderings, stone setting renderings, artists that use 3D printing in their work, photos of linkages, setting samples and article response, photos of test prints, photos of your conforming die and sample pressing, images of sketches)

2. Your 3D printed necklace final. (This could include your test print) You should also do renderings of your necklace. This should fall under the blueprint format and a photo realistic rendering. We will go over a photoshop montage technique in class. These should be color ink-jet prints.

3. Your stone setting piece. Given time constraints you should probably have your print from the ASIGA and your stones. If you plan on working through the break I would suggest trying to cast your print.

4. Your conforming die and a sample pressing. (I have three files ready. I will be sending them to the printer today) Just a few things: make sure you have some space around your die. I would give yourself at least 3/4" around the edge.


Create a new button using macros

If you paste this text into the command line in Rhino you can actually tell it to do things.  
If you type "Polyline" into the command line the polyline command starts up.  Know that we know that Rhino is text based we can create custom buttons that create objects using simple text. 





Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Our print is all done!

So just a few things here.  The print completed and I came in early to take it off the print bed.  I have a few pro tips for this process.  First, take the glass print bed out of the machine and run it under water.  Try to tug on the print.  If it doesn't free itself you can chip away it with a plastic putty knife.  Make sure you use the plastic one.  We don't want to gouge the printer bed.  Once off immediately dry the entire glass (both on top and under).  Then place the it back in the printer so the next person can print.  Make sure it is flat and registered. This print took two hours and thirty minutes so the faster we can get back up and running the better!

I used a multi-tool to remove the support material.  My multi-tool had a knife which I used to scrape the part to remove the residuals.  I would recommend sandpaper afterwards.  The ABS is a little gooey and can gum up rotary tools if your RPMS are too high.  So if you use the flex shaft to clean things up....go slow.